[Updated July 9, 2023] Visiting Times Square is a must on any respectable New York City itinerary, but while tourists from around the world flock to the so-called Crossroads of the World, New Yorkers go out of their way to avoid it. Locals may even tell tourists to skip it altogether, that it’s not worth it, that it’s been hyped up to a status it can’t possible live up to.
But can you imagine going to New York and not seeing the bright lights of Times Square? That’s essentially not an option. What remains to be seen though is whether you love it or hate it. In this article, I hope to provide you with a little background on the world-famous landmark, as well as helpful tips on visiting Times Square so you can make the most of your time there–and come out unscathed.
Times Square’s Seedy Past
In 1966, a twenty-five-cent peep show opened in Times Square. That little business venture paved the way for adult film theaters and erotic stores. Over the next decade, open drug use became the norm. Homeless people and prostitutes headed there in droves and by the late 1970s, more felonies were committed in Times Square than anywhere else in the city.
Those days are long gone. Times Square is no longer criticized for its open sex trade, homelessness, and drug use. But when those days disappeared, some say they took with them “the grit, the grime, and the attitude” that gave it an authenticity, an edge.
Now, Times Square is regularly criticized because it’s too commercial. Critics say the once gritty center of the universe has been whittled down to a bland outdoor strip mall. TripAdvisor reviews call it crowded and overrated.
Modern Day Times Square
Matt and I have been to Times Square numerous times over the years and can confirm: it’s crowded! The costumed characters are clearly multiplying, for one thing. It seems like every time I look away from one Elmo, two more appear, standing next to a Batman and a Minion. They only add to the chaos, as do the crowds who gather to watch Naked Cowboy and other street performers in action.
It also seems that everyone is absorbed with taking selfies. In fact, a couple recently asked us to get up and move from our seat on the Red Steps because we were in their photo shoot.
So, what am I saying, exactly? Should you even go to Times Square?
Absolutely, yes! Even after more than a decade of living in New York, I honestly believe that for all of its flaws, it’s still a special place that deserves to be seen. We even made a video. Check it out!
So, go with an open mind. Enjoy the boundless energy and endless motion that make Times Square a one-of-a-kind experience. Just follow my tips so you can come out on the other end in one piece.
Five Tips for Visiting Times Square, NYC
1. Get the Lay of the Land
Our ritual whenever Matt and I travel to a new city is to find the place where people gather. Exploring the center from where everything flows is vital. Only then can we explore the side streets, hidden gems, and out of the way neighborhoods.
In New York, love it or hate it, that center point is Times Square.
Because we live in the city, Times Square doesn’t pull us as strongly as it used to. We’ve been there so many times and other, relatively newer attractions like the High Line or Hudson Yards deserve our attention, too.
However, Times Square remains our favorite first stop whenever we have new-to-NYC visitors in town. We usually head directly for the Red Steps. Situated at an ideal location at 47th Street and 7th Avenue, smack on top of the TKTS Discount Booth and rising 16 feet above street level, it has to be the best place to people-watch in all of New York City.
For first time visitors especially, Times Square is a good place to acclimate yourself to the pulse of the city, especially at night, when it really comes alive!
The flashing billboards and snippets of languages from around the world will mesmerize you. The smell of hot pretzels and roasting chestnuts (and probably some unidentifiable smells, too) will drift your way, and you’ll be completely under the Big Apple’s spell.
Enjoy the magic. Relax on the Red Steps, and you’ll soon be ready to take on the rest of the city.
Bonus Tips: If you’re in Times Square around midnight, don’t miss Midnight Moment, a digital art exhibition that’s synchronized on the billboards from 11:57-12:00 p.m. every night.
And if you happen to be visiting around June 21 and would like a truly unique New York experience, check out the annual Solstice in Times Square: Mind Over Madness Yoga, during which everyone is invited to take part in one of the yoga classes that take place in Times Square throughout the day.
2. Shop in (Relative) Peace
Crazy, right? Peace. In Times Square?
Its reputation for being a hotbed of immorality has lingered long after its clean-up. In 1981, Rolling Stone Magazine named West 42nd Street the “sleaziest block in America.” But to be honest, it now resembles the Mall of America more than anything else.
But if we’re looking for an upside to the sanitization of one of America’s most iconic landmarks, consider the massive square-footage of stores like American Eagle Outfitters, The Gap, and the mammoth flagship H&M.
But–and don’t quote me on this if it’s Black Friday or some other horrendous shopping holiday–these multi-level stores mean that shoppers can spread out and have some breathing room. No matter how many people are outside on the streets elbowing their way through the crowds, there always seems to be an empty corner inside these retail caverns. And a lot of stores stay open late so it’s a win-win situation for night-owl shoppers.
I should mention here that I am not a person who enjoys shopping, yet I often go to Times Square when I want to hit several stores in close proximity. And the music that’s inevitably blasting from the speakers blocks out the incessant honking of horns out on the streets, putting me in a zen state of mind.
Bonus Tip: If you’ve hit your Times Square shopping limit and want to check out a more unique, locally-owned small business, take a short walk to Domus (413 W. 44th Street), a women-owned store that sells cool housewares, accessories, and gifts from around the world.
3. Stay Nourished. Stay Hydrated.
Last summer, my niece and her friends “walked around” Times Square until 4:00 in the morning. My first thought was not about her safety. Let’s face it, between the surveillance cameras, concrete barriers, and constant NYPD presence, you won’t find a safer spot in the city. No, I wondered how she kept her stamina up for so many laps around the square.
The key to staying happy in Times Square is very much the same as if you were training for a marathon. Stay hydrated. Stay nourished.
Because you know what? The moment your stomach growls, it’s too late. Trust me. You do not want to push your way through thousands of people ogling upwards, snapping photos, or generally standing in the way at the same time the hangries are kicking in.
As we all know, being hangry means your irritation intensifies at the same time your patience dissolves and that’s not the state of mind you ever want to be in, let alone while you’re ensconced in a thick, heavily-touristed crowd.
Of course there’s food and water for sale in Times Square. But the prices are…well, you’re in a major NYC tourist destination and the prices reflect that: they’re expensive.
Also, why settle on commercial blandness? Can’t you get Red Lobster or Chevy’s at home? Times Square is adjacent to the Theater District so when you’re ready for a sit-down meal, the restaurants that cater to theater-goers are all around you.
For some of the best restaurants near Times Square, try Totto Ramen for Japanese or Danji for Korean tapas. Becco is popular for Italian.
So, to recap, carry snacks and water for marathon sessions in Times Square, then seek out one of the many good restaurants nearby, rather than the overpriced tourist traps.
Bonus Tip: For a food court setting, head to Urban Hawker, an indoor food hall that serves Singapore-style street food. Various vendors serve up dim sum, noodles, and other popular Singaporean dishes. Beer and wine are available.
4. Move Like a Local
Wading through Times Square at its busiest can be tedious and frustrating. Have you ridden the subway? It can also get so crowded that you’re nearly standing on tiptoes, but there’s organization to that chaos. You step aside to let people off. You move your shoulder bag or puppy carrier or trombone off the seat next to you so others can sit. You’re polite and patient.
This is less true in Times Square because of the concentration of tourists who come from cultures around the world where people move in crowds (or never move in crowds) in very different ways.
The only way to deal with large public crowds in New York City is to keep moving, preferably at a brisk pace. Times Square, however, with so much to gawk at, isn’t set up for brisk walking. The city has tried to alleviate human traffic jams by allocating Pedestrian Flow Zones for continuous movement, and Designated Activity Zones where you can have your picture taken with Elmo or any of the zillion costumed characters that are milling about.
Look for the signs that let you know if you should keep moving, or if you can stop and snap a pic.
Bonus Tip: If it’s extra crowded, encourage your friends and loved ones to walk in single file until you get through the thick of it. Quick movement is a must. It unclogs the sidewalk for others and helps you move at a quicker pace. If everyone moves along, there’ll be less congestion.
5. Plan Your Exit
Do not, I repeat, do not wait until you are crowd-fatigued to try and disengage yourself from the human masses of Times Square. Once you’ve decided to get out, do it quick. Head east or west rather than north or south. Once you hit 6th Avenue or 8th Avenue, breathe. There will still be a lot of people but not so many that your head will spin.
A lot of comments I’ve heard about New York, ranging from “I like to visit but I could never live there” to “It’s just too crowded” are largely a result of spending too much time in Times Square.
Most New Yorkers I know (including Matt and I) hate big crowds or at least can take them in only small doses. (That’s why we live in Inwood!).
So, if I can leave you with one sage piece of advice, let it be this: Don’t overdo it. Get in and see Times Square, post your pics to your social channels, and then get the hell out and see the rest of the city! If you’re fed up with crowds, you may want to explore more non-touristy activities in NYC.
Have more tips for visiting Times Square, NYC? Let us know and have a great time!