For a memorable weekend escape, head to Garnet Hill Lodge for a weekend of cross-country skiing in the Adirondacks. See nature in all it’s tranquil beauty and get a heart-thumping workout at the same time, then retreat to the main lodge and warm up by the fire at this impressive Adirondack resort.
Cross-country skiing is one of my favorite ways to embrace the spirt of winter. I do have fond childhood memories of downhill skiing, but they mostly involve how much I loved the swishing sound of my snow pants, how good it felt to come in from the cold, and that one time when I was about 7 years old and couldn’t get my skis off in time to run to the bathroom. I didn’t want to go home early so I didn’t tell anyone, and I skied for the rest of the day in damp discomfort.
Throughout my teens and twenties, I skied sporadically until I finished college. I moved to London, and then traveling became my life and I lost interest in skiing. By the time I thought about it again, I was older and no longer fearless, aware that if I fell, I would tumble down the hill much harder than I used to.
When it comes to vacations and weekend trips, I am most definitely a summer person, but since Matt and I are currently rooted in New York City, we try to enjoy the four distinct seasons in the Northeast.
We’d rather participate in winter activities than wish the season away and there are definitely some unbeatable winter activities in the Adirondacks, like winter carnivals that take place on frozen lakes. (Though I still dream of lazy summer lake days floating in the lake rather than walking across its frozen tundra!) There’s also the winter wonderland that Lake George morphs into during the snowy season.
This year, we wanted to be more physically active during the winter. I also wanted to return to that childhood feeling of exerting myself in the sharp winter air and then thawing out tired muscles in front of a crackling fire. That desire led us to search for the best place to cross-country ski in the Adirondacks.
We landed at Garnet Hill Lodge in North River, NY, located about 100 miles north of Albany and 165 miles south of Montreal, a location that nearly assures snowy winter conditions and also draws a multicultural crowd of outdoor enthusiasts.
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History of Garnet Hill Lodge
Garnet Hill Lodge has three buildings with overnight accommodations. We stayed at the Log House, which was built in 1936 in the style of a Great Adirondack Camp. Historically, this rugged architectural design—which resembles part Swiss chalet, part log cabin—required homes to be built with local natural resources and were popular with the upper class in the early 20th century.
The homes were usually primitive in appearance only, allowing the wealthy to experience the wilderness in relative comfort. Some Adirondack Camps were on par with Gilded Age wealth: Alfred G. Vanderbilt’s Great Camp Sagamore had its own bowling alley, for example. Others, like the Log House, were a little less ostentatious.
The story of the Log House overlaps with the story of North River itself. In 1893, a man named Frank Hooper capitalized on the garnet-rich land and opened a lucrative mine. It was so successful that a community soon sprung up around the mine and in 1936, Hooper built the Log House as a guest house and restaurant for his son-in-law.
That home has evolved into what is now a year-round resort with a full-service restaurant, a cozy pub, and a recreation room with board games and a pool table. The ownership of Garnet Hill Lodge has changed hands a few times and eventually expanded to include two additional buildings—Birches and Teahouse—that offer guest accommodations.
Garnet Hill Outdoor Center
The outdoor center is owned by Garnet Hill Lodge, and lodge guests receive free trail passes for the duration of their stay. Trail passes for non-guests are available for purchase. Both guests and non-guests can rent equipment at the rates listed here.
Garnet Hill Outdoor Center is made up of 55 kilometers of groomed cross-country trails. On the advice of the staff, we followed the Old Faithful trail, a nice easy introduction and very easy to follow for beginners (like us) on cross-country skis.
On the day we arrived, a major winter storm was in the forecast. We had left New York City early in the morning in order to beat the snow and—with perfect timing—it began to fall just as we snapped on our skis, creating a winter wonderland for our first day on the trails.
Oh, and we quickly learned a few things that may be useful for first-timers:
- Dress warmly but layer. Cross-country skiing is a highly physical, aerobic activity and makes five degrees Fahrenheit feel much warmer. On that note, wear sweat wicking clothing as your inner-most layer and bring water to stay hydrated.
- Before heading out, watch a video on cross country skiing techniques, then practice the movements before you actually hit the trail. Or, consider taking a lesson at the Garnet Hill Ski School.
- Practice falling. Practice getting up. My biggest fear is not a broken leg or skiing into a tree, but injuries that result in those small, back-tweaking injuries that come from sudden jerking movements.
Once the snow melts in the spring, the outdoor center transforms into a destination for hiking and mountain biking, and Thirteenth Lake can be accessed for swimming and canoeing during the summer.
Snowshoe Hiking at Garnet Hill Lodge
Garnet Hill Outdoor Center is the place for snowshoeing in the Adirondacks. Being lodge guests entitled us to a free guided snowshoe hike, which we took in the morning and which consisted of just Matt and I and our guide, Walter.
Walter led us up the Hooper Loop trail, describing along the way the history of Hooper’s Mine and entertaining us with his own stories of growing up in a small town. The snowstorm the day before had lasted all through the day and night so we were able to make fresh snowshoe tracks through deep powdery snow while the forest protected us from the whipping winds.
At the top of the trail, we reached the old Hooper Mine, which closed down in 1928 after Hooper’s operation exhausted the garnet. Walter pointed out Ruby Mountain in the distance, where garnet mining is still an active industry.
Rooms and Food at Garnet Hill Lodge
We stayed in a Log House Balcony Room, a compact room with a comfortable king-sized bed, newly renovated bathroom, and second-floor views down the hill to Thirteenth Lake and out to the mountains that rise up behind it.
Breakfast is included. Ours was a basic hot buffet that gave us the fuel we needed to hit the trails. And while the lodge itself is a throwback to the era of the Great Camps of the Adirondacks, the lunch and dinner menus are fully modernized with hearty meals for hungry skiers.
The pub’s bartender also made us a couple of killer Manhattans when we got back from skiing. At the ski center, the second-floor Bobcat Lounge has après ski specials that include live music, beer and wine.
Around Town
Cross-country skiing in the Adirondacks was our main goal for this this particular weekend so we didn’t spend much time exploring the surrounding area. The hamlet of North Creek is about a 15-minute drive away and has a small downtown area with restaurants and shops.
Gore Mountain Ski Resort is just few minutes past North Creek if you want to add a downhill skiing excursion to your winter weekend. During the non-winter months, the area is popular for fishing, whitewater rafting, mountain biking, and hiking.
Final Thoughts on Garnet Hill Lodge
We absolutely loved our Adirondacks cross-country skiing experience. If you’re looking for a perfect upstate New York winter getaway, I highly recommend Garnet Hill Lodge! And don’t worry if you’re no expert skier. You’ll be surrounded by winter scenery around every corner, so no matter what, you’ll have a great time!
- Garnet Hill Lodge
- 39 Garnet Hill Road, North River, NY 12856
- Front desk: 518-251-2444
- Ski Shop: 518-251-2150